Showing posts with label christmas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label christmas. Show all posts
Friday, 24 December 2021
Christmas Memories
Tick, tick, tick, such a joy to be able to cross off some of the ‘must-dos’ off my interminable list!
How come Mummy somehow managed to arrange her life so that virtually everything was organised by Christmas Eve (and there were nine of us!) The tree decorated, paper chains looped from corner to corner across the ceiling, holly tucked coyly behind picture frames, Christmas cards on every mantel piece, log baskets filled, candles primed and the pantry bursting with Christmas goodies. Mincemeat, plum puddings, brandy butter, cranberry sauce… the stuffing was made, the ham glazed and several batches of soda bread weighed up ready to just mix and pop into the oven when we needed freshly baked loaves over Christmas. The Christmas cake took pride of place on the sideboard, simply decorated with a snow scene embellished with a scattering of silver dragees and Christmas decorations that re-emerged every year from where they were stored in the old Jacobs biscuit tin box.
Mummy’s legendary trifle laced with oodles of sweet sherry, hidden well away so the boys couldn’t demolish it on their return from midnight mass on Christmas Eve.
In later years, we’d all travel back home from far and wide on Christmas eve and gather around the fire while Mummy cut the aforementioned Christmas cake. We’d catch up with each other’s lives over many cups of tea and moist crumbly cake with a thick layer of marzipan – that’s what memories are made of…
Labels:
christmas
Wednesday, 24 November 2021
Christmas Cooking Classes
We have several Christmas cooking classes coming up at the Ballymaloe Cookery School to get you in the festive mood - some live streamed and others in person.
Christmas Cooking with Rory O'Connell and Darina Allen
Monday 13th December 10-5
This course may only last a single day but it is life changing: turning a potentially fraught and tedious annual task into a stress-free and pleasurable experience. You’ll learn dozens and dozens of seasonal recipes, and even more importantly how to plan ahead so that you can eat, drink and be merry for the whole holiday without worrying about how you are also going to feed everyone. For this reason many of the dishes are designed so that they can be prepared ahead of time.
The course covers both traditional and more innovative recipes including
- Scrumptious starters from seafood to warming soups
- Main dishes including the Roast
- Traditional Roast with all the trimmings
- An array of side dishes from bubbling gratins to seasonal salads
- Delicious desserts
- And festive drinks Can't make it in person? Then join Darina and Rory for a wonderful morning of Christmas Cooking and get into the festive cheer. via the Live Stream of this class from 10am-1pm.
Just Cook It, Christmas with Rory O’Connell at Ballymaloe Cookery School
Tuesday, 14th December from 2pm – 7pm.
This half day course gives you a tantalising taste of the Ballymaloe Cookery School and provides inspiration for anyone eager to cook a variety of festive dishes with greater confidence.
Limited numbers, complying with all government and NEPHET regulations. Recipes and tasting of all dishes included.
Monday 13th December 10-5
This course may only last a single day but it is life changing: turning a potentially fraught and tedious annual task into a stress-free and pleasurable experience. You’ll learn dozens and dozens of seasonal recipes, and even more importantly how to plan ahead so that you can eat, drink and be merry for the whole holiday without worrying about how you are also going to feed everyone. For this reason many of the dishes are designed so that they can be prepared ahead of time.
The course covers both traditional and more innovative recipes including
- Scrumptious starters from seafood to warming soups
- Main dishes including the Roast
- Traditional Roast with all the trimmings
- An array of side dishes from bubbling gratins to seasonal salads
- Delicious desserts
- And festive drinks Can't make it in person? Then join Darina and Rory for a wonderful morning of Christmas Cooking and get into the festive cheer. via the Live Stream of this class from 10am-1pm.
Just Cook It, Christmas with Rory O’Connell at Ballymaloe Cookery School
Tuesday, 14th December from 2pm – 7pm.
This half day course gives you a tantalising taste of the Ballymaloe Cookery School and provides inspiration for anyone eager to cook a variety of festive dishes with greater confidence.
Limited numbers, complying with all government and NEPHET regulations. Recipes and tasting of all dishes included.
Just Cook It, Christmas with Rachel Allen
This half day course gives you a tantalising taste of the Ballymaloe Cookery School and provides inspiration for anyone eager to cook a variety of festive dishes with greater confidence.
Limited numbers, complying with all government and NEPHET regulations. Recipes and tasting of all dishes included.
Limited numbers, complying with all government and NEPHET regulations. Recipes and tasting of all dishes included.
Wednesday, 15th December from 2pm – 7pm
More Christmas Cooking with Darina Allen & Rory O Connell
Monday December 20, 2021 from 2-5 pm
Live Stream
For Live Stream classes see
https://www.ballymaloecookeryschool.online/
For more information and booking see www.cookingisfun.ie or telephone 021 4646 785
Live Stream
For Live Stream classes see
https://www.ballymaloecookeryschool.online/
For more information and booking see www.cookingisfun.ie or telephone 021 4646 785
Labels:
christmas,
cookery demonstrations,
cookery school
Saturday, 19 December 2020
Memories of Christmases Past
A trip down memory lane this Christmas I’ve been racking my brains to think of ways to add extra meaning to what for many, may be a long, lonely, cheerless Christmas. Pick up a pen, let our minds drift, dredge up memories of Christmas’s past, happy or perhaps tinged with sadness, anticipation, longing, disappointment… Don’t worry if the memories seem disjointed. Snippets of family get-togethers: raw, funny, poignant… just get it down on paper or if you can, sit by the fire, share and while away a few nostalgic hours recounting memories that may have been un-consciously buried for many years.
Memories come flooding back. Christmas baking started in November in our house too. This took two whole afternoons - we would look forward to it for weeks. Mum would specially wait until we came home from the village school so we could all get involved - washing the glacé cherries, deseeding muscatel raisins, chopping and peeling – everything had to be done from scratch then, and of course it was an advantage to have a few more hands around to help to cream the butter, line the cake tin and stir the plum pudding. That was super exciting because we each had to make a wish, eyes tightly shut, before the fruity mixture flecked with suet was packed into white Delph bowls and covered with greaseproof paper, “don’t forget to overlap it in the centre to allow the pudding to expand”. Little fingers held the knot to secure the twine handle tightly. Best of all the tradition in our house was to eat the first plum pudding on the night it was made. The Christmas season had begun and without doubt my mother’s plum pudding recipe (inherited from my grandmother and great-grandmother) is the best any of us have ever tasted and I’m not just being nostalgic.
And then there was the trifle, Mum’s trifle was legendary – when I was little it was made with dried rusk like trifle sponges that appeared in the village shop before Christmas every year. Mum had a generous hand with the Bristol cream sherry – we split them in half, then sandwiched them with homemade raspberry jam, we layered them up with homemade custard (no not Birds) in two special cut glass trifle bowls retrieved from the top shelf of the pantry where they sat from one festive season to the next. I have to share this recipe with you I can confidently say that it’ll be the best trifle you’ll ever, ever taste. But there was ‘trifle drama’ in our house every year… Everyone loved the trifle. So Mummy had to hide the trifles every year because my crafty brothers would search the house to find it when they arrived home from midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. Once they found it in the oven of the gas cooker, eventually she resorted to hiding the trifle under her bed to save them for Christmas Day...
Memories come flooding back. Christmas baking started in November in our house too. This took two whole afternoons - we would look forward to it for weeks. Mum would specially wait until we came home from the village school so we could all get involved - washing the glacé cherries, deseeding muscatel raisins, chopping and peeling – everything had to be done from scratch then, and of course it was an advantage to have a few more hands around to help to cream the butter, line the cake tin and stir the plum pudding. That was super exciting because we each had to make a wish, eyes tightly shut, before the fruity mixture flecked with suet was packed into white Delph bowls and covered with greaseproof paper, “don’t forget to overlap it in the centre to allow the pudding to expand”. Little fingers held the knot to secure the twine handle tightly. Best of all the tradition in our house was to eat the first plum pudding on the night it was made. The Christmas season had begun and without doubt my mother’s plum pudding recipe (inherited from my grandmother and great-grandmother) is the best any of us have ever tasted and I’m not just being nostalgic.
And then there was the trifle, Mum’s trifle was legendary – when I was little it was made with dried rusk like trifle sponges that appeared in the village shop before Christmas every year. Mum had a generous hand with the Bristol cream sherry – we split them in half, then sandwiched them with homemade raspberry jam, we layered them up with homemade custard (no not Birds) in two special cut glass trifle bowls retrieved from the top shelf of the pantry where they sat from one festive season to the next. I have to share this recipe with you I can confidently say that it’ll be the best trifle you’ll ever, ever taste. But there was ‘trifle drama’ in our house every year… Everyone loved the trifle. So Mummy had to hide the trifles every year because my crafty brothers would search the house to find it when they arrived home from midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. Once they found it in the oven of the gas cooker, eventually she resorted to hiding the trifle under her bed to save them for Christmas Day...
Monday, 7 December 2020
Cook Ahead for Christmas
My heart goes out to all who are hoping against hope that travel restrictions will be lifted so children, grandchildren and dear friends can make it home for Christmas. We’re all craving a time when we can sit round the kitchen table together and enjoy a meal and maybe a little singsong without worrying about social distancing. It truly is heart breaking…
So let’s keep positive and try to focus on happier times. None of us can predict what’s ahead so let’s plan regardless. Pour yourself a glass of something delicious to sip on, make a soothing pot of tea. Grab a pad and write some lists, plan a week of delicious Christmas meals and treats. Then tick off what can be made ahead and frozen or pickled, so if all goes well you can spend as much precious time with the loved ones you’ve been yearning to see.
In the worst case scenario, you can enjoy some delicious comforting food after Christmas. There are so many good things that can be happily be made ahead without suffering in any way. I’ll be making lots of soups and freezing them in recycled containers. Quarter, half and one litre milk cartons work brilliantly, stack neatly in the freezer and can be defrosted quickly. I’m loving root vegetable soups at present: Swede Turnip and Bacon Soup with Parsley Oil costs just pennies to make. I’m also loving Jerusalem Artichoke soup with Avocado and Crispy Croutons, Celeriac and Hazelnut Soup... Curried Parsnip Soup is a favourite as is the combination of Parsnip and Fennel Soup.
Recipes for both Bread Stuffing and Potato Stuffing freeze perfectly and will be brilliant to stuff a chicken, pheasant, turkey, goose and duck. Apple sauce and Red Cabbage complete that meal but the pièce de résistance is this All in One Christmas Dinner on a Dish - This recipe dates back to the time when the United Hunt held its annual ball in Ballymaloe every year before Christmas. They wanted the whole works so my mother in law, Myrtle devised this delicious version which we prepared ahead and reheated. It became such a favourite that it was requested every year. It’s definitely a bit of a mission to make and you’ll need to cook the turkey and ham separately. Meanwhile make a creamy mushroom filling with lots of fresh herbs and then a creamy sauce to coat the lot.
The end result is an unctuous “Turkey and Ham Sandwich” that reheats deliciously in 10-15 minutes on the day.
You’ll need something fresh tasting to flit across the tongue after that deeply satisfying meal. Who wouldn’t love a clean and fresh tasting citrusy Tangerine Sorbet or Compote of Pears with Saffron to round off a Christmas feast.
Have a wonderful joyful Christmas counting our blessings.
A Christmas Dinner on a Platter
Serves 30
1 x 12-14 lbs (5.5-6.5kg) free range turkey, preferably a bronze turkey
1 x 8-10 lbs (3.4-4.5kg) ham or loin of bacon, (unsmoked, soaked overnight in cold water if salty)
chicken or turkey stock
dry white wine
2 carrots
1 large sliced onion
2 sticks celery
bouquet garni
a few peppercorns
50g (2oz) chopped parsley
2 tablespoons other fresh herbs, eg. tarragon, thyme, chives, lemon balm
3-4 egg yolks
600ml (1 pint) cream
85g (3oz) roux
Duchesse potato made with 5.5-6.5kg (12-14lb) potato, for piping around the dishes
Mushroom with fresh herbs and cream
85-100g (3-4oz) butter
1.2kg (2½lb) sliced mushrooms
180 ml (6fl.oz) cream
4 tablesp. fresh herbs, eg. parsley, thyme, chives
425g (15oz) onions, finely chopped
Roux as needed (equal quantities of melted butter and flour cooked together for 2 – 3 mins)
lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
3 – 4 serving platters
Cover the ham with cold water, bring it slowly to the boil and discard the water, cover again with hot water. Bring to the boil and simmer until the ham is cooked, 2½ hours approx. (calculate 20 minutes to 450g (1lb) as a rough guide). The skin will peel off easily when the ham is cooked.
Meanwhile, season the turkey and put it into a large saucepan with about 12.5-15cm (5-6 inches) of water or chicken stock and white wine. Add 1 large sliced onion, 2 sticks of celery, 2 large carrots cut in chunks, a bouquet garni and a few black peppercorns. Bring to the boil, cover closely and simmer for 2 hours approx. either on top of the stove or in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/regulo 4.
While the turkey and ham are cooking, prepare the mushrooms. Melt the butter in a wide heavy bottomed saucepan. When it sizzles add the chopped onions, cover and sweat over a low heat until soft but not coloured. Meanwhile in a hot frying pan, fry off the mushrooms a few at the time in a little butter, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add them to the softened onions. Add more butter if necessary, but never too much, add the freshly chopped herbs, cream and a squeeze of lemon juice. Taste for seasoning. Bring to the boil and thicken with enough roux to thicken lightly. Set the mushroom a la crémè aside until you are ready to assemble the dish.
When the turkey is cooked the legs will feel loose in their sockets, remove it from the casserole and de-grease the cooking liquid. Bring it to the boil and reduce by half. Add 300-450ml (10-15fl.oz) cream, I know that sounds shocking but this recipe makes 30 helpings and you are not going to eat it all yourself! Bring back to the boil and thicken to a light coating consistency with roux. Taste for seasoning.
Skin the turkey, the skin from a poached turkey is soft rather than crisp, so I don’t use it in this dish. Chop up the brown turkey meat from the legs and the white meat from the wings into smallish pieces and mix with the mushroom a la créme. Add 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 dessertspoon thyme, chives and lemon balm if available.
Spread a layer of the creamy sauce on the serving dishes. Carve a nice slice of bacon or ham for each serving and place at regular intervals on top of the sauce. Spoon some of the brown meat and mushroom mixture on top. Carve the turkey breast into thin slices and place 1 slice per serving on top of the mushrooms and ham, making individual complete sandwiches.
Whisk 3-4 egg yolks with 150ml (5fl.oz) cream to make a liaison, blend well and stir this into the remainder of the cream sauce. (It should be a coating consistency.) Coat the pieces of turkey with this sauce. Cool and refrigerate. If serving on the day, pipe a generous border of Duchesse potato all around the edge of the dishes. Cool the dishes quickly, cover and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
Reheat in a moderate oven 180C-190C/350-375F/regulo 4-5, for 30 minutes approx. until it is bubbling and golden on top. If necessary, flash under the grill to brown the edges of the Duchesse potato.
Garnish with generous sprigs of flat leaf resh parsley and serve.
Top Tip:
If freezing the dishes with a potato border around the edge, freeze first and then cover tightly with strong cling film to prevent the potato from getting squashed.
However, for best results, freeze without the potato, but pipe it on just before reheating.
Roux
110g (4oz) butter
110g (4oz) flour
Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Use as required. Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred. It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.
Duchesse Potato
Serves 4
900g (2lbs) unpeeled potatoes, preferably Golden Wonders or Kerr's Pinks
300ml (10fl ozs) creamy milk
1-2 egg yolks or 1 whole egg and 1 egg yolk
25-50g (1-2oz) butter
Scrub the potatoes well. Put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a generous pinch of salt, bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for 'old' potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put on to a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked. Peel immediately by just pulling off the skins, so you have as little waste as possible, put through a ricer or mouli legume while hot. (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes into the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade).
While the potatoes are being peeled, bring about 300ml (10fl oz//1 1/4 cups) of milk to the boil. Beat the eggs into the hot mashed potatoes, and add enough boiling creamy milk to mix to a soft light consistency suitable for piping, then beat in the butter, the amount depending on how rich you like your potatoes. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Note: If the potatoes are not peeled and mashed while hot and if the boiling milk is not added immediately, the Duchesse potato will be lumpy and gluey. If you only have egg whites they will be fine and will make a deliciously light mashed potato also.
So let’s keep positive and try to focus on happier times. None of us can predict what’s ahead so let’s plan regardless. Pour yourself a glass of something delicious to sip on, make a soothing pot of tea. Grab a pad and write some lists, plan a week of delicious Christmas meals and treats. Then tick off what can be made ahead and frozen or pickled, so if all goes well you can spend as much precious time with the loved ones you’ve been yearning to see.
In the worst case scenario, you can enjoy some delicious comforting food after Christmas. There are so many good things that can be happily be made ahead without suffering in any way. I’ll be making lots of soups and freezing them in recycled containers. Quarter, half and one litre milk cartons work brilliantly, stack neatly in the freezer and can be defrosted quickly. I’m loving root vegetable soups at present: Swede Turnip and Bacon Soup with Parsley Oil costs just pennies to make. I’m also loving Jerusalem Artichoke soup with Avocado and Crispy Croutons, Celeriac and Hazelnut Soup... Curried Parsnip Soup is a favourite as is the combination of Parsnip and Fennel Soup.
Recipes for both Bread Stuffing and Potato Stuffing freeze perfectly and will be brilliant to stuff a chicken, pheasant, turkey, goose and duck. Apple sauce and Red Cabbage complete that meal but the pièce de résistance is this All in One Christmas Dinner on a Dish - This recipe dates back to the time when the United Hunt held its annual ball in Ballymaloe every year before Christmas. They wanted the whole works so my mother in law, Myrtle devised this delicious version which we prepared ahead and reheated. It became such a favourite that it was requested every year. It’s definitely a bit of a mission to make and you’ll need to cook the turkey and ham separately. Meanwhile make a creamy mushroom filling with lots of fresh herbs and then a creamy sauce to coat the lot.
The end result is an unctuous “Turkey and Ham Sandwich” that reheats deliciously in 10-15 minutes on the day.
You’ll need something fresh tasting to flit across the tongue after that deeply satisfying meal. Who wouldn’t love a clean and fresh tasting citrusy Tangerine Sorbet or Compote of Pears with Saffron to round off a Christmas feast.
Have a wonderful joyful Christmas counting our blessings.
A Christmas Dinner on a Platter
Serves 30
1 x 12-14 lbs (5.5-6.5kg) free range turkey, preferably a bronze turkey
1 x 8-10 lbs (3.4-4.5kg) ham or loin of bacon, (unsmoked, soaked overnight in cold water if salty)
chicken or turkey stock
dry white wine
2 carrots
1 large sliced onion
2 sticks celery
bouquet garni
a few peppercorns
50g (2oz) chopped parsley
2 tablespoons other fresh herbs, eg. tarragon, thyme, chives, lemon balm
3-4 egg yolks
600ml (1 pint) cream
85g (3oz) roux
Duchesse potato made with 5.5-6.5kg (12-14lb) potato, for piping around the dishes
Mushroom with fresh herbs and cream
85-100g (3-4oz) butter
1.2kg (2½lb) sliced mushrooms
180 ml (6fl.oz) cream
4 tablesp. fresh herbs, eg. parsley, thyme, chives
425g (15oz) onions, finely chopped
Roux as needed (equal quantities of melted butter and flour cooked together for 2 – 3 mins)
lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
3 – 4 serving platters
Cover the ham with cold water, bring it slowly to the boil and discard the water, cover again with hot water. Bring to the boil and simmer until the ham is cooked, 2½ hours approx. (calculate 20 minutes to 450g (1lb) as a rough guide). The skin will peel off easily when the ham is cooked.
Meanwhile, season the turkey and put it into a large saucepan with about 12.5-15cm (5-6 inches) of water or chicken stock and white wine. Add 1 large sliced onion, 2 sticks of celery, 2 large carrots cut in chunks, a bouquet garni and a few black peppercorns. Bring to the boil, cover closely and simmer for 2 hours approx. either on top of the stove or in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/regulo 4.
While the turkey and ham are cooking, prepare the mushrooms. Melt the butter in a wide heavy bottomed saucepan. When it sizzles add the chopped onions, cover and sweat over a low heat until soft but not coloured. Meanwhile in a hot frying pan, fry off the mushrooms a few at the time in a little butter, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add them to the softened onions. Add more butter if necessary, but never too much, add the freshly chopped herbs, cream and a squeeze of lemon juice. Taste for seasoning. Bring to the boil and thicken with enough roux to thicken lightly. Set the mushroom a la crémè aside until you are ready to assemble the dish.
When the turkey is cooked the legs will feel loose in their sockets, remove it from the casserole and de-grease the cooking liquid. Bring it to the boil and reduce by half. Add 300-450ml (10-15fl.oz) cream, I know that sounds shocking but this recipe makes 30 helpings and you are not going to eat it all yourself! Bring back to the boil and thicken to a light coating consistency with roux. Taste for seasoning.
Skin the turkey, the skin from a poached turkey is soft rather than crisp, so I don’t use it in this dish. Chop up the brown turkey meat from the legs and the white meat from the wings into smallish pieces and mix with the mushroom a la créme. Add 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 dessertspoon thyme, chives and lemon balm if available.
Spread a layer of the creamy sauce on the serving dishes. Carve a nice slice of bacon or ham for each serving and place at regular intervals on top of the sauce. Spoon some of the brown meat and mushroom mixture on top. Carve the turkey breast into thin slices and place 1 slice per serving on top of the mushrooms and ham, making individual complete sandwiches.
Whisk 3-4 egg yolks with 150ml (5fl.oz) cream to make a liaison, blend well and stir this into the remainder of the cream sauce. (It should be a coating consistency.) Coat the pieces of turkey with this sauce. Cool and refrigerate. If serving on the day, pipe a generous border of Duchesse potato all around the edge of the dishes. Cool the dishes quickly, cover and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
Reheat in a moderate oven 180C-190C/350-375F/regulo 4-5, for 30 minutes approx. until it is bubbling and golden on top. If necessary, flash under the grill to brown the edges of the Duchesse potato.
Garnish with generous sprigs of flat leaf resh parsley and serve.
Top Tip:
If freezing the dishes with a potato border around the edge, freeze first and then cover tightly with strong cling film to prevent the potato from getting squashed.
However, for best results, freeze without the potato, but pipe it on just before reheating.
Roux
110g (4oz) butter
110g (4oz) flour
Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Use as required. Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred. It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.
Duchesse Potato
Serves 4
900g (2lbs) unpeeled potatoes, preferably Golden Wonders or Kerr's Pinks
300ml (10fl ozs) creamy milk
1-2 egg yolks or 1 whole egg and 1 egg yolk
25-50g (1-2oz) butter
Scrub the potatoes well. Put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a generous pinch of salt, bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for 'old' potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put on to a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked. Peel immediately by just pulling off the skins, so you have as little waste as possible, put through a ricer or mouli legume while hot. (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes into the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade).
While the potatoes are being peeled, bring about 300ml (10fl oz//1 1/4 cups) of milk to the boil. Beat the eggs into the hot mashed potatoes, and add enough boiling creamy milk to mix to a soft light consistency suitable for piping, then beat in the butter, the amount depending on how rich you like your potatoes. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Note: If the potatoes are not peeled and mashed while hot and if the boiling milk is not added immediately, the Duchesse potato will be lumpy and gluey. If you only have egg whites they will be fine and will make a deliciously light mashed potato also.
Wednesday, 26 December 2018
Christmas Leftovers
I hope you’ve managed to resist the urge to fill your fridge and pantry to
bursting point but having said that I love the fun of using up leftover bits of
this and that.
Now for a few
ideas…Not sure if there will be any little morsels of turkey or crispy skin
left over after everyone has tucked into turkey sandwiches on Christmas evening
but, if there are, strip off the carcass to make this delicious pilaff. Then pop
the carcass into a pot with 2 or 3 quartered onions, same of carrots and a
stick or two of celery, a sprig of thyme and a few peppercorns. If you don’t
use the giblets (neck, heart and gizzard) to make a flavourful stock for the
gravy, add them in to the pot. Cover the whole lot with cold water, bring to the
boil, skim and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. Strain and you’ll have a delicious pot
of turkey broth to sip or use as a base for a stew, casserole or to make an
unctuous risotto or the pilaff.
Use the turkey liver
immediately while it is fresh to make this parfait and serve it in little pots with
plump Pedro Ximénez raisins. It’ll make a delicious starter or can be slathered
on crisp, hot toast for a snack. (Read on for the recipe).
What other
leftovers? Might you have any leftover Brussel sprouts, if so trim the
outsides, then half or quarter each one, blanch, drain well, toss in extra
virgin olive oil and roast in a hot oven. Then toss with chorizo crumbs – so
yummy. I’m loving roasted cauliflower and Romanesco florets too.
Leftover
cranberry sauce keeps well so don’t fuss about using it up but do try it with
some soft goat cheese. Fresh cranberries also keep well and of course freeze
perfectly, otherwise throw a fistful into your salads, scones, muffins or soda bread.
Maybe stew them down, add a little chopped rosemary and add them to an apple sauce
to serve with a pork chop or make a ‘catch-all’ cranberry chutney.
Sprinkle left over
mincemeat into a batch of scones. Serve them warm with the remainder of the
brandy butter.
What else might you have lurking in your fridge, perhaps some miscellaneous
morsels of cheese? Well I’ve got just the perfect recipe, a little gem that
turns leftover cheese into delicious biscuits. A perfect snack or an
irresistible nibble to serve with a glass of wine.
Make breadcrumbs
from left over bread and pop them into the freezer. They’ll be so useful for
crumbles, stuffing or panagratto to sprinkle over stews or gratins, sweet or savoury
or make a Queen of Puddings. Otherwise make a bread and butter pudding, it’s a
brilliant, catch-all for all kinds of scraps, morsels of meat or smoked fish, Brussel
sprouts, chard, sautéed mushrooms, chopped herbs, grated cheese… just omit the
sugar for a savoury version and serve with a
good green salad.
Well, there are
just a few ideas to help you to be creative with your leftovers. Meanwhile, a
very Happy Christmas and New Year, hopefully you’ll manage
to get a few delicious long walks in….
Turkey Liver Parfait with Pedro Ximénez Raisins
Serves
10-12 depending on how it is served.
225g
(8oz) fresh organic turkey livers
2
tablespoons
200-300g
(8-12oz) butter (depending on how strong the livers are)
1
teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1
large clove garlic, crushed
225g
(8oz) butter, cubed
freshly
ground pepper
50g
(2oz) of raisins or sultanas
2
tablespoons Pedro Ximénez Sherry
50g
(2oz) pistachio nuts, halved
clarified
or melted butter to seal
Put
the raisins into a small bowl, cover with warm Pedro Ximenez and leave to soak
until plump and juicy.
Wash
the livers in cold water and remove any membrane or green tinged bits. Dry on
kitchen paper.
Melt
a little butter in a frying pan; when the butter foams add in the livers and
cook over a gentle heat. Be careful not
to overcook them or the outsides will get crusty; all trace of pink should be
gone. Add the crushed garlic and thyme
leaves to the pan, stir and then de-glaze the pan with brandy, allow to flame
or reduce for 2-3 minutes. Scrape everything with a spatula into a food
processor. Purée for a few seconds. Allow
to cool.
Add
the butter. Purée until smooth. Season
carefully, taste and add more butter.
This
parfait should taste fairly mild and be quite smooth in texture. Fill into little
pots or into one large terrine. Tap on
the worktop to knock out any air bubbles. Spoon a little clarified butter over
the top of each little pot of pâté to seal. If serving immediately spoon the
Pedro Ximénez soaked raisins and pistachio nuts on top.
Serve
with brioche, crusty bread, sourdough toasts or croutes. This parfait will keep for 4 or 5 days in a
refrigerator.
Watchpoint: It
is essential to cover turkey liver pate with a layer of clarified or even just
melted butter, otherwise the parfait will oxidize and taste bitter and turn
grey in colour.
Pilaff Rice with Turkey and Ham and Fresh Herbs
Although a risotto
can be made in 20 minutes it entails 20 minutes of pretty constant stirring
which makes it feel rather laboursome. A pilaff on the other hand looks after
itself once the initial cooking is underway. The pilaff is versatile – serve it
as a staple or add whatever tasty bits you have to hand. Beware however of
using pilaff as a dustbin, all additions should be carefully seasoned and
balanced.
Serves 8
25g (1oz) butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion or shallot
400g (14oz) long-grain rice (preferably Basmati)
975ml (32fl oz) homemade turkey or chicken stock
225g (8oz) diced cooked turkey
225g (8oz) diced cooked ham or bacon
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs eg. parsley,
thyme, chives: optional
Melt the butter in a casserole, add the finely chopped
onion and sweat for 2-3 minutes. Add the rice and toss for a minute or two,
just long enough for the grains to change colour. Season with salt and freshly
ground pepper, add the chicken stock, cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the
heat to a minimum and then simmer on top of the stove or in the oven
160C/325F/Gas Mark 3 for 10 minutes approx. By then the rice should be just
cooked and all the water absorbed. At this stage stir in the diced turkey and
ham/bacon to heat through, ensure it is piping hot. Just before serving stir in
the fresh herbs if using.
Note
Basmati rice cooks quite quickly; other types of rice
may take up to 15 minutes.
Roast Brussels Sprouts with Chorizo Crumbs
Serves 4-6
I first tasted
roast Brussels sprouts cooked in a wood burning oven in a restaurant in San
Francisco about ten years ago. My friend Mary Risley told me this new way of
cooking Brussels sprouts was causing lots of excitement. I didn’t get it, but
now I love them cooked this way, there’s a fine line between sweet roasted and
acrid burnt, so watch them like a hawk.
(450g)
1lb Brussels sprouts
extra
virgin olive oil
flaky
sea salt
freshly
ground black pepper
Chorizo
crumbs to serve (see recipe)
Preheat the oven
to 230°C/450°F/Mark 8.
If necessary trim
the Brussels sprouts of any tough outside leaves, trim the stalk, cut into
halves. Blanch in boiling water for 2 – 3 minutes. Drain well. In a bowl drizzle the blanched sprouts with
extra virgin olive oil. Season with flaky sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, toss to coat. Transfer to a roasting tin, cook for 10 – 15 minutes
depending on size, shake the pan occasionally. The sprouts should be pale
golden and crisp on the outside and tender within. Sprinkle with the chorizo
crumbs and transfer to a hot serving dish.
Chorizo & Parsley Crumbs
Chorizo crumbs are
delicious used in so many ways. We like
to scatter them over potato, celeriac, Jerusalem artichoke or watercress
soup. They are particularly good
sprinkled over cauliflower or macaroni cheese.
Keep in a box in your fridge for several weeks, or freeze and scatter
when you fancy!
Makes 175g (6oz)
4 tablespoons
extra virgin olive oil
125g (4 1/2oz)
chorizo, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch dice
100g (3 1/2oz)
coarse breadcrumbs
1 – 2 tablespoons
chopped flat leaf parsley
Put the oil into a
cool pan, add the diced chorizo. Toss on
a low heat until the oil starts to run and the chorizo begins to crisp. Careful it’s easy to burn the chorizo, drain
through a metal sieve, save the oil and return to the pan.
Increase the heat,
add coarse breadcrumbs and toss in the chorizo oil until crisp and golden. Drain and allow to cool, add to the chorizo,
stir in the chopped parsley.
Doune McKenzie's Cheese Biscuits
Any bits of left over cheese eg. Cheddar, Parmesan,
Gruyére, Coolea, Cashel Blue … a little soft cheese may also be added but you
will need some hard cheese to balance the flavour.
Weigh cheese then use equal amounts of butter and
plain white flour.
Grate the cheese - rinds and all. Dice the
butter. Cream the butter and stir in the
flour and grated cheese, form into a roll like a long sausage, about 4cm (1 1/2
inches) thick. Alternatively whizz in a food processor until it forms a dough,
shape using a little flour if necessary. Wrap in parchment and twist the end
like a Christmas cracker. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 -2 hours until
solid.
Slice into rounds - about 7mm (1/3 inch) thick. Arrange on a baking tray, cook in a preheated
oven 250ºC/475ºF/regulo 9 for approximately 5 minutes until golden brown.
Leave to cool for a couple of seconds then transfer to
a wire rack. Best eaten on the day they
are made as they soften quite quickly.
Tuesday, 18 December 2018
Christmas is Coming...
Christmas is
almost here again, my grandchildren are wild with excitement and anticipation…
Letters are
already winging their way to Santa and some have been making Christmas cookies
and helping to stir the plum pudding. They love to hear stories of Christmas
when I was a child and are incredulous when I tell them how a little mandarin
or clementine in the toe of my Christmas stocking was a huge treat to be eaten slowly
and enjoyed segment by segment.
In fact one of the
biggest challenges nowadays is to encourage children to think of those less
fortunate and perhaps wrap up some of the toys and clothes they have outgrown
to share.
Hopefully you’ve
ordered a nice plump, free range turkey or goose for Christmas day and decided
on the accompaniments. Many people start with the idea of doing something
different this year but if you have family coming home for Christmas they
usually don’t want you to change a thing. The traditional Christmas dinner is
sacred in many families and that is what memories are made of, the favourite stuffing,
Mam’s gravy, plum pudding, trifle and Christmas cake…
Every detail must
be the same, I’ve given recipes for traditional turkey and goose on the Irish Examiner website in the past. My new favourite
way to cook the turkey is to dry brine it the day before then
roast it over the tray of stuffing so the juices can drip into the dish and
flavour it deliciously. It cooks much faster than a whole bird and you don’t
have to forgo the stuffing either. Talking of stuffing, my new favourite stuffing (inspired by ‘the dressing’ used by US friends for Thanksgiving), is made with chunkier pieces of bread rather than the breadcrumbs we usually use.
Try to find duck, goose
fat or good lard to roast the potatoes. The flavour will be a revelation. Peel,
blanch and refresh the potatoes on Christmas Eve, dry and keep them in the
fridge in a covered box. Sprouts can be halved or better still quartered and
blanched in boiling water for 2-3 mins, then drained and plunged into ice to
stop them cooking. Drain them well and refrigerate, ready to be reheated in
boiling salted water just before Christmas dinner. Don’t forget lots of melted
butter and freshly cracked black pepper to serve. I also love celery in a rich parsley
sauce, another dish that can be tucked away in the freezer a week or two ahead.
Cranberry sauce can also be made weeks in advance, make more than you need for
presents or gift hampers for even busier friends.
Bread sauce can
also be made several days ahead and reheated, even frozen, if that works better
for you.
In our house we
have both plum pudding and trifle, everyone loves Mummy’s plum pudding. Once
again think about making an extra one or two for gifts to share with someone
less fortunate.
If you decide to break
with tradition why not try my Christmas meringue wreath served with pomegranate
seeds and verbena leaves, it too can be made ahead and decorated before
serving.
A glazed loin of streaky
bacon is our secret favourite dish at Christmas it is super succulent and juicy
and a fraction of the price of ham. The best discovery is that it can be
reheated if cooked and glazed ahead.
So with all that preparation
done you too can really enjoy Christmas day… Remember to allocate responsibility
of different aspects of the festivities to different members of the family of
all ages, thus sharing the fun and passing on the skills to the next generation
– laying the table, arranging the flowers, as well as the cooking.
Have a wonderful fun
filled Christmas with family and friends and look out for your neighbours too.
All your favourite
Christmas recipes and many more besides are in my book Darina Allen’s Simply
Delicious Christmas published by Gill Books.

Labels:
celebrations,
christmas,
cookery books,
seasonal
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